The Real Reason Your Lip Balm Isn't Working and Options That Help (2025)

There's nothing like the cold air to starkly remind us just how important it is to have lip balm handy. Dry, chapped lips are painful, bothersome, and more prominent as temperatures decline. “That cold irritant jostles our keratinocytes, our epidermal barrier, and compromises it, and then water can evaporate out essentially,” explains board-certified dermatologist Mona Gohara, MD. “You also tend to breathe faster in the winter, if you’re cold,” says board-certified dermatologist Papri Sakar, MD. “You’re breathing out not just air but saliva, and that water or that spit, it gets on the lips and then evaporates off and causes more dryness.”

What Causes Dry Lips?

Cold weather isn't the only thing that dries out your lips either. “Forced indoor heating can also strip our skin of moisture, from our heads to our toes,” explains Geeta Yadav, MD, board-certified dermatologist. It’s especially noticeable on lips because the skin there is so much thinner. "It’s about three to six layers deep rather than the 15-plus layers of skin found on the rest of our bodies," says Yadav.

Additionally, constantly licking your lips can worsen dryness because the saliva evaporates and leaves them dehydrated, explains Pooja Rambhia, MD, a board-certified dermatologist based in New York City. " Some lip products, especially those with fragrances or exfoliating ingredients, can irritate the delicate skin on the lips, leading to further dryness," she adds.

What to Look for in a Lip Balm

Moisturizing Ingredients

When searching for the right lip balm, people should look for the three types of moisturizers. Humectants, such as hyaluronic acid and glycerin, help draw moisture into the skin, and emollients, like shea butter and squalane, that soften and smooth lips and help with cracks, explains Gohara.

Basically, emollients are moisturizers that help to seal the skin cells back together by adding moisture. "Finish with an occlusive layer, such as petrolatum, to form a protective barrier and seal in hydration."

Repairing Ingredients

Other ingredients to look out for are ceramides, which act like the glue that holds your skin together and keeps dry skin woes at bay. "They contain lipid molecules that help restore the skin’s protective barrier, reducing water loss and improving hydration," says Rambhia.

Ingredients to Avoid in a Lip Balm

As your hunt to find the best lip balm forges on, steer clear of products with menthol, camphor, phenol, and alcohol. “These are ingredients that can irritate the skin leading to skin shedding,” explains Morgan Rabach, MD, board-certified dermatologist, assistant clinical professor at Mount Sinai School of Medicine, and the cofounder of LM Medical Dermatology and Plastic Surgery in New York. Other irritating ingredients include cinnamon or capsaicin (hot pepper), which are often used in lip-plumping treatments.

How We Chose the Best Lip Balms

Our beauty team is dedicated to finding you the best of the best formulas. For this story, we spoke with dermatologists and asked them how to get the most out of your lip balm, including what ingredients help combat dryness, irritation, and splitting or cracking. We also got the go-to recommendations they suggest to their clients or use on themselves. Additionally, we researched, swiped, and stress-tested top-rated and brand-new formulas that hit the market and compared them to find the ones that actually work. We took texture, feel, ingredients, price, versatility, and longevity into consideration. You can trust that this list is a compilation of expert-vetted lip balms.

Oprah Daily beauty director, Kate Sandoval Box, wearing the original vaseline on top of her lipstick.

La Roche-Posay is known for its gentle, fragrance-free formulas suitable for all skin types, especially sensitive. This lip balm is no different. "With its combination of panthenol, shea butter, and lipids, this balm helps repair and protect the lips, making it perfect for extremely dry or cracked lips," says Rambhia. The texture isn't greasy and it's easily accessible as you can find it at your local drugstore for a wallet-friendly price. "I'm obsessed with how moisturizing this formula is but also lightweight," says Genesis Rivas, beauty editor.

Genesis Rivas, beauty editor, wearing the La-Roche Posay lip balm.

While this is admitted a splurge, it's so much more than a lip balm. As we get older, the lips naturally lose moisture and volume, making them more susceptible to dryness and fine lines. If you're looking to soothe dryness and plump your pout, this formula is the next best thing to injectables. It contains microencapsulated hyaluronic acid to plump lips over time, ceramides to repair and seal moisture, and goldenrod extract to help give a fuller look.

Kate Sandoval Box wearing the Macrene Actives Plumping High Performance Lip Filler.

Before you roll your eyes and think it's just "another celebrity beauty brand," this lip treatment from Hailey Bieber's skincare collection is "worth all the buzz," says Rivas. The dreamy formula contains moisturizing shea butter, plumping peptides, softening cupuacu, and replenishing babassu to give you juicy, hydrated, and soft lips. It has the perfect glossy finish without being sticky or heavy. The best part is it's long lasting so you don't have to constantly reapply.

Oprah Daily beauty editor, Genesis Rivas, wearing the Rhode Lip Peptide Treatment in Watermelon Slice.

Rabach recommends Aquaphor for its purity and reasonable price. It's clinically proven to relieve dryness and soothe chapped lips. This new stick infuses coconut oil and shea butter to soften and repair cracked lips. (It also comes in an option with aloe vera). To get the most out of your formula, Gohara recommends exfoliating the lips to remove dead skin cells. Then, follow up with a hydrating serum, like one with hyaluronic acid, and lock it all in with a swipe of this occlusive formula. It's gentle, fragrance-free, and paraben-free.

Aquaphor Repair Stick with aloe vera and shea butter.

If your lips are past the dryness stage and have entered the super sensitive, cracked, patchy, and painful to the touch phase, this budget-friendly option comes highly recommended by both Gohara and Rambhia. "This lip balm contains a mild steroid, hydrocortisone, to help calm inflammation and soothe irritated lips," explains Rambhia. It's a great hypoallergenic treatment for lips affected by eczema, severe dryness, cold sores, allergies, mouth breathing, and accutane.

Scarlett Johansson, founder of the Outset, is known for many things. One being her plump and full lips. Luckily, she and her team created a formula that helps everyone achieve hydrated, lustrous, and plump-looking lips. Introducing the Lip Oasis, a glossy treatment that helps stimulate collagen production, reduces the look of fine lines and wrinkles, brightens, and hydrates. It contains squalane, peptides, polyglycerides, lactic acid, and a botanical alternative to hyaluronic acid.

Poppy & Pout has been chosen as an Oprah's Favorite Thing multiple times and for good reason. She loves it because it's made with natural ingredients, like beeswax and coconut oil to lock in moisture, is ethically sourced, and made with eco-friendly recyclable packaging. Shop it in 10 colors that offer a subtle hint of color. Or buy the 10-piece set that was featured in the 2024 Oprah's Favorite Things.

"This one is great for stashing in your pocket or in your bag when you need extra nourishment," says Yadav. "It has a bunch of emollients, including lanolin, castor oil, and beeswax—and also comes in fun flavors." It's a dermatologist fan favorite, evident by the rave reviews from Kim Nichols, MD, FAAD, a Harvard-trained, board-certified dermatologist. "My go-to everyday lip balm is the Glossier Original Balm Dotcom; this hydrating lip balm features a variety of natural antioxidants and emollients," she says.

Not-so-fun fact: "Prolonged exposure to UV rays can damage lip skin, leading to chapping and dryness," explains Gohara. The solution is an SPF-infused balm. "It’s actually kind of like sunscreen that has makeup in it," she says. “I’m really confident that my patients are protecting themselves with it because lips are very susceptible to sun damage.” Bonus: It's water- and sweat-resistant for up to 40 minutes. It comes in six shades.

The world of lip balms is your oyster with this organic option. Available in multiple flavors, shades, and pack options, you can stock up on a formula that's sure to soothe and hydrate. "Coconut oil and shea butter all contain fatty acids and vitamins that help to heal, protect, and provide lasting hydration to the lips," explains Nichols. These ingredients are all present in this lip balm, ensuring it's a great go-to for those with chapped lips.

Chances are you've seen, heard, or even already tried this TikTok viral lip mask. "This one is creamy, rich, and soft without feeling thick or heavy," explains Yadav. "It contains a lot of emollients, including murumuru and shea butters, candelilla wax, and the humectant sodium hyaluronate." Additionally, it contains a blend of fruit extracts that offers antioxidant benefits. Apply a thick layer before going to bed and wake up to lips that are softer, smooth, and hydrated.

"If I was stranded on a desert island, I'd bring this," says Papri Sarkar, MD, board-certified dermatologist. "It's a petrolatum (great emollient) with ceramides." Gohara also recommends this option for restoring the skin barrier. While it's great for slugging on your face and lips, it can really be used anywhere like heels, elbows, etc. "It's not sexy, but it's got staying power without being as heavy as Aquaphor," says Sarkar.

If you're struggling with severe dehydration, this lip balm is your best bet. "This medical-grade, emollient cream has vitamin E and hyaluronic acid to nourish lips and restore hydration, botanicals to soothe irritation, and silymarin to prevent future damage," says Nichols. You'll notice it immediately helps ease dryness and tightness by attracting and retaining water. While it is a splurge, you can rest easy knowing that you're protecting, rejuvenating, and healing dry lips.

Suggested by Gohara, this semi-matte, nonslip formulation helps to moisturize and protect chapped lips. The formula contains a mix of soothing and hydrating ingredients, like colloidal oatmeal, shea butter, hyaluronic acid, and glycerin. Over time, it helps nurture and hydrate, keeping lips feeling soft, smooth, and comfortable. It's a great choice for those with super irritated or sensitive skin because the gentle formula is allergy-tested, gluten-free, nut-free, soy-free, and vegan.